What to do in Oulu? | Finland beyond Helsinki and Lapland

Oulu ⁠— the stop before Lapland! It is the fourth largest city in Finland, located around 170 km south of the arctic circle. The city has been chosen as the European Capital of Culture for 2026. So if you happen to find yourself in this city, here is a list of things that you may want to check out.

Hunt the auroras: I mention this first as this was what brought me to the city for the first time. It was the September of 2021 when I saw news of a period of high solar activity that may bring in good auroras. Oulu is one of the southernmost locations in Finland with frequent auroras. Unfortunately, the weekend we travelled to Oulu was cloudy and we got no show. However, it was during another trip later that year, I finally managed to see the aurora in Oulu. The Facebook group Oulu Aurora Spotters has a map that tells the best locations in Oulu to see auroras. The group also has active members who post about aurora sightings almost immediately.

Winter cycling: Oulu is the winter cycling capital of the world and home to the Winter Cycling Federation. It has the most extensive network of cycling routes in Finland covering the entire city and also the neighbouring municipalities. Not just that they have the routes, but most of them are well maintained and kept illuminated even through the cold dark winters which is basically about half the year. The real thrill of cycling does come when the temperatures go as low as -20°C.

Meet the Toripolliisi: Be it sun or snow, the policeman is on duty overseeing the Oulu's market square. The bronze statue sculpted by Kaarlo Mikkonen was unveiled in September 1987. It is dedicated to the market police officers who patrolled the area between 1934 and 1979. The Toripolliisi is probably the most recognisable and photographed landmark in the city. So don't forget to get yourself clicked with the officer.

My stories of chasing the aurora in Finland

"Because it is not only about the lights, but the stories behind it that excite me"

28 August 2021 : a sudden stroke of luck

Back then, I had never expected to see the northern lights in Kuopio. Though I had heard about these rare sightings, I never expected to be that lucky to see the lights so close to my home. It was a Friday night and I had gone out with my bike to click the sunset (late summer sunset at around 8.30 pm), but by the time I could negotiate a hill and reach the other end of the town, it was already dark. However, the darkness had a surprise for me in store. Like every other day, I halted at the Särkilahti bridge to catch up on my breath from the 30 km ride. I was about to ignore a man thinking he was just out with his dog, but he had his camera and eyes fixed towards the sky. I would have missed the faint aurora but thanks to him it was my first encounter with the northern lights.

25 September 2021: a failed attempt

The September equinox is one of the times when the solar activity is at a peak and the chances of seeing the auroras are higher. It was also in the news about a certain day or days when the aurora might be visible — the start of the season. I decided to improve my chances by travelling further north to Oulu and was accompanied by a friend. At Oulu, we also put up at a place close to the beach which is among the best places to see northern lights in Oulu according to Oulu Aurora Spotters group. But this trip taught us yet another lesson about travel and hunting auroras — be humble, keep your expectations in check and enjoy whatever comes your way. Every night might be not yours. It was overcast for both the nights we spent there and only cleared just a few hours before we were about to travel back to Kuopio. Even though our target remained unfulfilled, we ended up exploring the city amid the autumn colours.